First glimpse of the Greenland ice sheet I flew over Greenland last November on the way to Seattle from Reykjavik. Despite a lifetime of staring at maps — okay, obsessing over maps — I didn’t understand the enormity of the Greenland ice sheet. It took nearly an hour to cross it at 800 km/h. Signs of life on the edge of Greenland Leaving Greenland We flew towards the setting sun. On the left...


