So It Goes by Nicolas Bouvier


“So it goes” recurs like a refrain throughout this collection of essays, and I found myself wishing it would go on and on.

Nicolas Bouvier is one of those legendary writers whose name circulates among travelers, but few of my North American road friends had ever heard of him. It was European friends who told me about his classic road trip book, The Way of the World.

The twenty-four year old Swiss and his friend, the painter Thierry Vernet, fired up and aging Fiat and set out from Geneva in 1953, bound for the Khyber Pass. The journey was impressive — through Yugoslavia and Turkey, across Iran and Afghanistan, and into Pakistan — but the prose was unforgettable.

Here was a writer of rare curiosity, with a gift for capturing landscapes and people. As Patrick Leigh Fermor wrote in the introduction to that book, Bouvier “catches scenes and atmospheres with a painter’s eye and a poet’s ear.” His tale is told with curiosity, patience, and an impeccable comic sense.

When I think of the broad scope of travel literature, I think The Way of the World is to Europe what On The Road was to America. Each book captured the road trip possibilities of its respective continent, but the two books and the two writers couldn’t be more different. Kerouac captured the mad, rushing, jazz-infused energy of America, while Bouvier brought a gentle but rugged optimism, a subtle eye, and a prose as richly layered as the historical landscape he emerged from. His work should be more widely read among English readers.

Which brings me to this book: So It Goes. I went off on a long digression about Bouvier’s first book because you should really start there. You will be so thoroughly enchanted that you’ll track down all of his works which were translated into English. They are very few.

This new volume from Eland is the first work by Bouvier to be translated and published in English in over twenty-five years. And it is likely to be the last.

The book brings together shorter travel writings from journeys that Bouvier undertook in the 1970’s, 80’s and 90’s: a mid-winter visit to the Aran Isles; a wander around the Lowlands of Scotland, and rugged Islay. Xian, China and South Korea make appearances, too. And the closing essay tells a tale from the author’s childhood in Switzerland.

It’s a wonderful collection, filled with imagery of great subtlety and originality, the sort that had me turning down the corners of pages over and over to mark a passage, or stopping to read a section aloud.

“This morning I left the city like a bed in which I hadn’t really slept,” he writes, as he abandons Edinburgh for Scotland’s misty lowlands.

In another story, he finds himself surrounded by trees, “in a constant state of dendrological intoxication”.

In another, he takes a room in a hotel, where, “the bed was as damp as a layer of mushrooms”.

And in Korea, hikes up a dormant volcano while reflecting on “these little volcanic lakes nestling in a landscape like a felt hat dented by a fist”.

So It Goes is everything you could hope for in a collection by Bouvier — except more Bouvier.

I can only hope that someone will translate his biography, as well as any remaining fragments that dripped from his pen.

As I closed the page on that last story — a tale of the eight-year-old writer’s campaign to overcome his tyrannical arch-nemesis, the Prussian housekeeper, Bertha — I was yanked from the tale with a sense of disappointment, wishing it would go on and on. It felt like he was just getting started.

Get your copy of So It Goes — and Nicolas Bouvier’s other books — from Eland today.

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About the author

Ryan Murdock

Author of A Sunny Place for Shady People and Vagabond Dreams: Road Wisdom from Central America. Host of Personal Landscapes podcast. Editor-at-Large (Europe) for Canada's Outpost magazine. Writer at The Shift. Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society.


  • I’ll read them!

    In 1961 I and my Turkish roommate Zermet were conscripted by his father Saddan who lived
    most of the year in Geneva (we were high school students at LAS in Leysin, Switzerland) to return his 1957 Cadillac El Dorado convertible to Istanbul. We drove from Geneva across Austria, Yugoslavia and Bulgaria to the family’s palatial home on the Anatolian side of the Bosperous river. Across Yugoslavia and Bulgaria we could have been two Martians in a space ship; we gathered crowds everywhere we stopped. and, almost got run down by a Russian tank
    It was the adventure of a lifetime.

    You may want to check out the Book ‘Mountain high” by Swede , Goran Krupp the mountain climber. He is credited as the only pure climb of mount Everest. He rode a bike all the way from Stockholm to Kathmandu then packed his gear up to base camp for a solo, unsupported climb. Then, rode back home to Stockholm.

    • That sounds like an incredible journey. You must have some amazing stories from the trip. Thanks for the mountain book recommendation, I’ll check that out.

  • Yes, there are some good stories. A government beaurocrate in Belgrade wanted to buy the ‘Caddie’
    He said ‘no problem, he would pay with Swiss Franks. We countered it wasn’t our car but Zermet’s father,’s . He said he could report it a a theft. Knowing that any transaction behind the ‘then’ iron curtain could land us in jail, we told the guy we’d let him know and got out of town.

    Then, in Sofia, Bulgaria a Russian Army Major wanted ride. He got it the back seat after fixing a hammer and syckel (Sp?) Soviet Union flag on both front fenders and we drove him around town.

    • Yes, probably wise to get out of town. The guy might have ended up with the car whether he paid you or not. That’s funny re: Bulgaria. So you guys were unofficially temporary staff drivers in a Warsaw Pact army. Things like that only happen on the road.


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